People complain that the Czech Republic has few beaches and no seashore. Maybe they should lament they didn’t evolve more quickly and weren’t born 150,000,000 years ago when the ancient Tethys ocean swelled slow and shallow across parts of Europe, including some of the Czech Republic. Over the millions of years of the ocean’s occupation, countless calcareous animals lived and died, their remains settling to the receding oceanic bottom where they were compressed and became limestone. Limestone is sooo nice for many grape varieties…
Pressure of the African tectonic plate abutting the Eurasian plate about 100,000,000 years ago started creating a tourist sensation called the Alps, as well as another range called the Carpathians. As the Carpathians rose some of that lovely, lovely white Tethyan ocean limestone slid west over more recently-formed sandstones and mudstones.
Thirteen million years ago, Czech residents again missed their chance for beachfront property, as a sea formed between the mountain ranges and surrounded the Pálava hills on all sides. Over millions of years, a sandy clay accumulated here. This mixture is (white) peppered with the boulders of limestone, proving that the aforementioned rock was already high and exposed to erosion.
The sea finished drying up some time ago. Geologically speaking, we were left with something resembling the Pálava Hills, give or take two ice ages and coinciding frosty weather that degraded some of the limestone and created some of the pillars we can observe now.
The earliest evidence of potential real estate owners appears as a small figurine created between 29,000-25,000 B.C. This small ceramic figure, one of the oldest in the world, is the voluptuously molded Venus of Dolní Věstonice. This Stone Age ceramic lady was buried in the ground long before our next marker of Western history, the Romans, appeared.
Here on the edge of their empire, the legionnaires gave us the first evidence of viticulture that we have, from the third-century A.D. [Personally, I believe that viticulture could have appeared much earlier, as neighboring Slovakia has evidence of the vine going back to 6-7th centuries B.C.] The proof appears to us as a typically-curved knife used to harvest grapes.
Following the Romans, viticulture continued in Moravia, but not until 1249 did I find a mention of grape plantings in Mikulov, these by the Lichtenstein family (the family with a country named after them). One can safely assume that vines were already planted there, given the history and situation of soil and exposition.
Mikulov and its beautiful architecture thrived under the Dietrichstein family’s rule who gained control of the area in 1575. The rule started with an immediate planting of grapes. During this time, Czech wines (and we’ll assume Mikulovian wines were at the top here) stood toe to toe with their Austrian counterparts, which brought about various complaints and threats from the vintners of both countries.
If we continue leaping centuries we’ll skip various contractions and expansions of Mikulov’s vineyards and the ravages of the wine pest phylloxera to land squarely in the 20th century. Czechoslovakia came into existence after World War I, and not so many people in the country made wine at this point, sugarbeets were more profitable. In 1937 an initiative to plant 7000 hectares in Moravia (to the paltry 3870ha existing) started just in time for World War II…
And afterwards came Communism, which rewarded quantity of grapes produced, not quality. Whatever training, tradition, and education had developed ( a wine school opened in Mikulov in 1903) was poisoned, uprooted, and ground under the responsiblelessness of the Communist regime.
Traditions might have been maintained in the small amounts farmers could make (or secretly made) for themselves – I’ve drank a decent 1989 Rhine Riesling that shows some quality from that time – but the post-communist era has been a learning process, and not everyone has paid attention in class. Only in the past few years has the idea of quality won out over quality, and the wines of Mikulov have started to show some consistency in the former category. These next years will be exciting ones for the wine industry of the Czech Republic, with Mikulov leading the way. They hope the wine world feels the same way…